Friday, July 8, 2011

When in Rome... (Sabato -- il primo giorno)

On Saturday, May 21st, Deb, Charlie, Emma, and I board the Rome-bound 10:10 a.m. high-speed Eurostar from Florence's Santa Maria Novella Rail Station to the Stazione di Roma Termini. 

Tom and Deb
From our comfy first class seats, for an hour and a half we watch the Italian countryside smoothly whiz by. 

Arriving in Rome just before noon, I split from the group and walk to my nearby hotel.  The Tirreno is a smallish hotel on a tiny street in the Monte Rione section of town, near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.  I chose it for its location and because it had free wireless service (I'm addicted to my new little netbook).  Soon after getting in my room -- a single, booked online weeks earlier -- I decide I will probably die of claustrophobia.  The room is actually taller than it is wide.  To get to the window, I must walk sideways through a 3 ft wide section of the room already containing a desk and chair.  But from that window there is a view that captures the charm of the neighborhood.


Instead of unpacking, I head back downstairs to the desk and ask if I could possibly have a different room. The guy at the desk says, "No problem, not today, but as soon as someone checks out in the morning you can have a very nice double room at no extra charge."

With that settled I head out to the streets of Rome to wander around.  I gravitate to the aforementioned Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore which commands a presence on the top of the Esquiline Hill.. 

The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore
It's my first church in Rome, so of course I am amazed by what's inside.  Only later did I find out that it is considered the most beautiful church in Rome, after St. Peter's.  The building was renovated in the 18th century and still contains the "triumphal arch" of 5th century mosaics and other medieval artwork.  This gilded coffered ceiling overwhelmed as soon as I walked in the door.


After spending hours at the Basilica, I leave and continue my wandering in the neighborhood around the hotel where there is plenty of Roman atmosphere for a first-time roamer (groan) to soak up.


In the evening, following a short nap, I head out to meet the others for dinner at La Taverna dei Fori Imperiale, located deeper in the Monte Rione neighborhood.  Streets become passageways not fit for autos.  So a circuitous route is taken to get me as close as possible to my destination.

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiale
My friend Dana (who lives here in the Monti neighborhood) recommended the restaurant, calling it her family's favorite.  I had made reservations before leaving the States and, having mentioned Dana's name when doing so, we receive royal treatment from the owners.  Everyone there knows Dana, Tom, and their two boys, Sam and Michael.  The place soon fills up and (except for our undercooked shrimps) the evening turns out to be superb.  

After a very full day, beginning at our villa in Florence and ending at a pleasant trattoria on the charming Via Madonna dei Monti in Rome, it is time indeed to collapse in my tiny room at the Tirreno.  Claudia calls us cabs and they soon arrive, dodging pedestrians while driving in reverse up the narrow street to get us.  

The schedule for "domani" looks pretty full too.

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